Making my way through this winter wonderland, I saw something extraordinary, something that I had never seen before in such great numbers. Women, for they were mostly female, walking around town in coats made entirely of fur. They must all imagine themselves to be movie stars, I thought, as I passed them by, because really only movie stars could wear and afford such spectacular furs. But Moscow is not Hollywood, and I saw so many of these coats that I stopped keeping track. Jokes such as that in Russia everything is a surprise—even how your date looks underneath her coat.